Beautiful and full of it (it being indoles, obviously), Poppy Soma is as lyrically entrancing and literally deceptive as the con artist poet, Scharmel Iris. Sichuan pepper engineers a star-shaped explosion of floral spice, 5 points of Scoville intensity directing us in as many different directions. Curry leaf is unctuous, and its earthy heat infuses red pepper until this shiny bulb bleeds out its steely, capsicum-berry juice. Black gardenia is akin to some ancient egg, its petals crazed with age and its scent richly condensed. Jasmine sambac is soft inviting sweetness against the defiant, virginal magic of red rose. Poppy accord is entrancing, a complex sugar that is bitter and toothsome all at once. Church incense and labdanum drape a gauzy coverlet over our eyes before we see too much of poppy, this masking action making for a graceful resolve to the troubled, complex florals that comprise the core of this scent. Tuberose, ironically, waits on the other side of this clarifying force. Still, tuberose’s untamable spirit perfectly integrates with the dark intensity of musk and tonkin, all of which is stylishly backlit by the waxy glow of styrax. A dim mystery that sweeps us into a state of reverie, Poppy Soma is an addictive substance, without any of the consequences.
Perfumer: Emilie Coppermann
The poppy opes her scarlet purse of dreams