Desarmant resurrects the scent of the mysterious bottle found in a splendid Neo-baroque hotel. A lilac fragrance may seem an antiquated move, but in the hands of Neirinck and Corticchiato the spring flower is both preserved and remodeled, resulting in an indisputably modern floral that’s still tinged with vintage charm. Mossy undergrowth (oakmoss) functions as a matte, thickly textured bed upon which luxuriant mauve clusters of lilac lie, glistening in the dewy, early evening light. These clusters of tiny blossoms have a sparkling, velveteen sheen, exuding a cashmere-soft, vanillic fragrance. Almost too picture perfect, this classically romantic floral teeters on the brink of impermeability until lilac exhales it’s heady, animalic undernote, synonymous with the height of its bloom. Once lilac declares itself proudly on the prowl, Desarmant is recalibrated and an ideal balance between the innocent, ingenue-like beauty and the dark, sensual prospects of this flower (underscored by a taut yet touchable leather) is struck.
Like a match, illuminating a hidden trove of treasure, we rediscover Desarmant as unlimited a fragrance that plays out preconceived expectations, only to invert our sense of the inevitable in one deft, effortlessly executed, hairpin turn. Like being expertly spun by an unassuming partner, Desarmant wins our heart by surprise. This fragrance returns lilac to its proper place in the pantheon of refined yet unapologetic flowers. Prepare to let down your guard; Desarmant is entrancing.
Orange, Cinnamon, Styrax, Ylang-Ylang, Rose, Osmanthus, Vanilla, Benzoin